To many sailors and sailing enthusiasts, there is no prettier sailboat than a schooner. To those most smitten by a schooner’s charms, there is nothing prettier, period. For both camps, and those in need of finding out why a schooner has the power to seduce, Provincetown offers what might be 2009's best opportunity of the entire East Coast in 2009 when, early in September, The 2009 Great Provincetown Schooner Regatta and Yacht Race will fill the waters off Provincetown with their sails and graceful hulls. The event is actually a "two-fer," two stunning schooner races held virtually back-to-back, set up so both sailors and land-bound spectators will be able to watch.

Everything kicks off Tuesday, September 8, when the schooners participating in the Sperry Challenge for the Fisherman’s Cup arrive in Provincetown. Their race started in Gloucester earlier that day, and the stirring finish will be a reminder of the Fisherman’s Cup glorious history. When the boats come in, it’s the start of four days filled with events ranging from a gala reception for the skippers and crews of the Fisherman’s Cup fleet to dockside tours of the boats and a chance for visitors to actually crew on one of the racing schooners participating in the Great Provincetown Schooner Race. This year’s event will mark the eighth annual celebration of schooner racing in the waters just off Provincetown. Back in 2001 the first race was such a success that it became an annual event. With the incorporation of the legendary Fisherman’s Cup the schooner race was firmly on the racing calendars of traditional sailing vessels from up and down the East Coast.

Feel like doing a bit of sailboat racing on a smaller scale? Wednesday, September 9, the day after the Fisherman’s Cup fleet comes in, the local Rhodes 19 fleet will engage in a three-race series, organized by the Provincetown Yacht Club but open to visitors as well. Trailer your Rhodes 19 to P-town and join in the fun! You don’t happen to have a boat? No problem; stop by the friendly folks at Flyer’s Boat Rentals. They have a rental fleet of this seaworthy, sturdy, easy-to-sail little sloop, and can set you up with everything you need to join in the race.

For the schooners participating the Fisherman’s Cup, Thursday is when the prizes are awarded, at the invitation-only Commodore’s Reception. For the rest of us, spend the day investigating the many shops, craft boutiques and art galleries that make Provincetown such a special place. P-town has been a home to artists for generations, and the chance to buy art “from the artist’s hand” is part of what makes a visit here so special.

Friday, September 11, is your chance to step on board the schooners tied up alongside MacMillan Pier. From 10:00 a.m. until 2:00 p.m. the skippers and crew will be on board to answer your questions and literally “show you the ropes.” Making sense of the many lines (that’s what sailors call the ropes that control the sails) is just a part of the skills mastered to make these lovely boats work the wind and waves as they cruise the bay. You’ll get the chance to walk the decks, take a look below at the galley and living quarters, and take photos to remember the day.

While you’re looking around the boats, the urge might strike to actually go out and sail on the boat. What does it feel like when the wind fills the sails and the boat leaps to the waves? If you find yourself asking that question, this could be your lucky day, because you can sign up to join the crew on board for the Great Provincetown Yacht Race on Saturday. Talk to the skipper of the boat that catches your eye and you could be part of the event in a very special way. Don’t worry if you haven’t completely “learned the ropes” because the professionals in the crew will be by your side and they want to win the race.

All visitors to the schooners will have to leave the boat by 2:00 because the crew will be getting ready to cast off for the Parade of Sail. One by one these stately vessels will pass by the viewing stand set up on MacMillan Pier, dipping their colors as they pass by. The pier will also be open for general viewing, and this promises to be a memorable event as the crews will be sailing their boats close enough to the pier for a full inspection.
After the Parade of Sail the boats will return to their piers, tidy up the ship and then it’s time to put on your party hat because the Crew Party on Fisherman’s Wharf is going to kick off at 7:30. You’re invited to party with the crews, and the entire town will turn out to celebrate with live music and food to keep your strength up as you dance the night away.

Saturday, September 12 is Race Day, and it starts early with the Captain’s Breakfast at 8:00 a.m. If you’ve signed up to crew you will know when and where to show up to board your boat. Get ready for a day like you’ve never experienced, in the company of an entire fleet of schooners as they slowly make their way to the starting line. The actual course the boats will race on may not be decided until shortly before the race starts. Watch for the skipper as he keeps his eyes on the racing committee boat anchored at one end of the starting line.

They will fly a special flag telling the crews what the race course will be. If this all sounds a bit mysterious, don’t worry. The crew knows what they’re doing and will answer any questions you have.

The boats will begin their sail to the start line at noon. If you’re on shore, watch for the delicate maneuvering of these boats, some of them 80 feet long or more, as they jockey for the best position to begin the race. When the brass cannon on the committee boat fires, the race begins.

Sails are trimmed, the skipper’s eye takes on a glint you probably haven’t seen before as he sails out to the race, and you could find your boat racing in close company to the rest of the fleet. Strategy is everything in a sailboat race. If your skipper can put his boat upwind from his rival’s boat it will “steal their wind,” slowing down the other boat and putting your boat in the lead. You could find your boat sailing so close to a competitor’s boat that you can hear the skipper’s commands to his crew. This isn’t NASCAR; it’s considered bad form to actually bump into the other boat and virtually never happens. These are floating works of art, with varnished wood and polished paint, and the racing is done in what might most accurately be called a “gentlemanly manner.”

The reward for a race well sailed is right after the finish. After you get back to the pier and get everything shipshape, the Awards Bash will celebrate the victors and console the rest. It will be a memorable conclusion to a truly memorable event, the Great Provincetown Schooner Regatta and Yacht Race. See you on the water!

www.provincetownschoonerrace.com

by Gregory O Jones